Gold Expressions 2011 offers us its version of “slow jewellery”

Collier Soleil di Matthia's & Claire, designer: Chiara Cilluffo (tema Forme Scultoree)

Enduring value is the leading trend

Statement Cuffs, Soft Gothic, Intricate and Delicate, Opulent Organics, Bold Links and Sculptural Forms are the six key themes emerging worldwide and are here interpreted by the Gold Expressions participating companies.  Their efforts lie in creating the perfect, contemporary equilibrium between the need to propose fashionable ideas and the necessity to emphasise jewellery’s lasting value.  David Lamb, World Gold Council’s  Managing Director for Jewellery, mentions a “Slow Jewel”, referring to the winning promotional strategy originally used by the catering industry and now adopted by the Made in Italy brand.  The brand is attentive to market trends and, at the same time, enhances its own historical and territorial roots.  Above all, it is averse to the brutal methods imposed by frenzied consumerism.

If the term “trend” is usually associated with the seasons of fashion, the World Gold Council’s vision is better structured.  On behalf of World Gold Council, Fiona Hughes explains, “Of course, the targeting of specific trends has been devised to favour the promotion of fashion collections during the fashion weeks of  Spring.  Nevertheless, even if jewellery does follow fashion its value must remain unchanged through time, even in terms of design.”

How can we practically interpret this concept?  “The individual lines of each company are composed of pieces that can be worn separately.  For example, we may find a necklace with a bold design paired with an extremely classical bracelet manufactured with such modern techniques that confirm how trendy it is.  For this reason, the bracelet, earrings and necklace officially part of the same collection, may at the same time represent more than one theme or assume a different characteristic, depending on whether worn ensemble or singularly.  The Sculptural Forms theme is a perfect example of this.”

Gioielli della linea Whisper di Sade, designer: Beatriz Biagi

Prominent traits

Sculptural Forms – important jewellery, textures that are pleasing to the touch, satin finishes and sensual designs,  woven threads creating jewellery of significant size, recalling art and contemporary design.

Statement Cuff – cuffs that are significant, three-dimensional or lightened by threads or spheres.

Soft Gothic – romantic feelings inspired by historical, architectural elements.  Fretwork portrays the rose windows of Middle Age cathedrals, laces.  Once again art’s symbols are represented.

Intricate and Delicate – Thin laminae, cut-outs and precious details even when size is reduced.  Polished and satin finishes, tassels and delicate trims are alternated.

Opulent Organics – Embellishment of elements that are anthropomorphic or inspired by nature, interpreted in a romantic style.  Enamels and colour.

Bold Links –  Simple rings, elaborate in their size or faultlessly wearable, fretwork elements made even more vital in their three-dimensional appearance or their precious spirals.

The international markets will soon tell us which of the jewellery collections will be most successful.  For the time being they are all united by a common denominator:  they are entirely designed and manufactured in Italy.

Collier Radiosa di Neri Romualdo, designer: Danilo Neri (tema Macro Maglie)

Participating companies:
Babila Milano, D’Orica, Dall’Avo, Daniela Neri for Mulino d’Oro, DML, Esssenza, Eurocatene, Faro, Femar, Gabriella, Graziella, Il Giglio, Maria de Toni, Matthia’s & Claire, Migliorini Gioielli, Neri Romualdo, OroZen, Primavera, Sade, Superoro, The Fifth Season, Tre Spighe Vendorafa.

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